Diagrama Vacuo x Avanço do Platinado 450SLC w107

Caros amigos, alguem tem o Diagrama do sistema de vaco de avanço do platinado da Mercedes 450SLC w107?
encontrei uma imagem, mas como nao diz qual usar e nem qual dos 3 conectores que tem para cada uma usar, nao sei o que fazer, a Mercedes veio com todos canos e fios das solenoides desligados. Se tiver como repassar diagrama completo destes tres solenoides, ja me dara uma grande ajuda, na imagem é o item 9


Existem 3 cores nas tampas destas eletro valvulas: amarela, verde, vermelha.

E no motor 3 entradas referentes ao vaco tambem, uma delas acredito que seja do avanço do platinado que sera acoplado juntamente com a eletro valvula. Veja foto.


Desde ja agradeço e fico no aguardo.

Vou te dar uma informação beseada na minha lembrança, o que pode ter um certo engano:
MALUHY, SOCORRO...




Mas pode comecar a brincar nesse site:
http://www.detali.ru
Não é um site que tenha yudo mas quebra um bom galho...Procure as W107, como seu carro é Djet, use a configuração do motor M116 que é identica.
veja o sistema do avanço em : http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=107023&M=116982&GA=722201&L=765%2E701&VIN=%2A&CT=M&cat=042&SID=15&SGR=060&SGN=04



outros sistemas:

Troubleshooting D Jetronic.

No start and fuel pump not working;

1)Test the fuse,relay,wiring and fuel pump.

No start and fuel pump working;

1)Test the main relay and power from ECU.Ensure there
is a good ground from ECU terminal #11 to ground.
2)If the ignition system has a good spark,good power
supply,ground to the ECU and continuity at the trigger
points(cover this later) and injectors fail to pulse,
replace the ECU.

Starts when cold and dies when the key is released;

1)Trigger points in distributor lack continuity.When
the engine starts,it is starting off of the cold start
injector and as you release the key,the cold start
injector shuts off.

Stalls when engine is cold;

1)Inspect the auxillary air valve.When the engine is cold,remove the hose on the intake side of auxillary
air valve and let air to be drawn into it.If the engine speed increases greatly,replace the auxillary air valve.
2)Temperature sensor 2 is also critical to cold operation.

Misfire or unstable idle;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape and also the intake is in good order.These need to be
confirmed first as they are more likely to cause this problem.
2)Inspect the circuits and sensors of temperature sensor 1 and 2 and continuity through both sides of trigger points.
3)Inspect the vacumm hose that goes between the pressure sensor and the intake manifold.It should have
no kinks and not collapse with vacumm present.
4)If all the above check out,do an injector flow test.

Misfire while driving;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Do a fuel pressure and volume test.
3)If the fuel pressure is constant,test temperature sensor 2,pressure sensor and throttle switch circuits.

Power is suffering;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Most likely this is due to low fuel pressure.Do a
fuel pressure-volume test and pay close attention for loss of pressure.
3)If correct,test the circuits of the pressure sensor and temperature sensor 2.If these meet specs,do an injector flow test.
4)If everything checks out,repeat this test.

Stalls when you decelerate;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Inspect the hoses and wiring for good contact.
3)Check your throttle stop adjustment and curb idle
RPM's.

Smokes and runs rough;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Do a fuel pressure and volume test.
3)Inspect the circuits of the temperature sensor 2,trigger points,pressure sensor and injectors.If they
check out fine,do a injector flow test.

Misfire under Load;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Do a fuel pressure-volume test.
3)Inspect the circuits of temperature sensor 2,
pressure sensor,trigger points and injectors.
4)If the above are good,do an injector flow test.

Trailer hitching;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Do a fuel pressure-volume test.
3)Inspect the circuits of temperature sensor 2,
pressure sensor,trigger points and injectors.
4)If the above are good,do an injector flow test.
5)Check the throttle switch.

Idle speed too high;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Check and adjust the throttle stop and curb idle speed.

Idle speed too low;

1)Ensure that the ignition system is in good shape
and also the intake is in good order.
2)Check and adjust the throttle stop and curb idle
speed.
Testing the D Jetronic Components


Main relay;

1)There should be 12 volts at pin # 24 of the ECU.

2)If not,check for 12 volts at pin # 24 of the relay.

3)If 12 volts is not present at the relay but it clicks,replace with a new relay.

4)If there is 12 volts at pin # 24 of the relay,repair
# 24 wire between relay and ECU.

5)If the relay does not click,inspect the wire from the main relay pin # 45 to ground.

6)If the ground is good and 12 volts at relay pin # 38
when the engine is cranked,replace the main relay.


Trigger points;

1)With the engine not running and ECU harness disconnected from the ECU,check the resistance between
ECU harness 12 and 21,then from 12 to 22.One should show a low resistance and the other should show an open circuit.

2)Rotate the engine 360 degrees and check the resistance.They should have an opposite reading now.

3)If not,perform the same test at the trigger points themselves.This will tell you if it a component or wiring fault.


Temperature sensor 1

1)With the engine not running and the ECU harness
disconnected from the ECU,connect an ohmmeter between
ECU harness pin # 1 and 13.At an ambient temperature
the reading should be 200 ohms.

2)If the resistance is well above 200 ohms,check resistance at the sensor itself to determine if it is
a component or wiring fault.

3)Check resistance of all the terminals to chassis ground.There should always be an open circuit.


Temperature sensor 2

1)With the engine not running and the ECU harness
disconnected from the ECU,check the resistance between harness terminal 23 and ground.The resistance should be 2000 ohms at ambient temperature.

2)If the engine is near operating temperature,the resistance should be below 1000 ohms.

Throttle switch

1)Test the throttle switch with the key on,engine off.

2)Slowly open the throttle,and as it opens the injectors should alternately click.You should hear
20 evenly spaced clicks.

3)If this is not met,place a 0.016 in.(0.4mm)feeler
gauge between the throttle stop and throttle stop screw.Connect a voltmeter to terminal 17 of the throttle switch.The voltmeter should show voltage while the ignition key is in the on position.Remove the feeler gauge and the voltmeter should show no voltage now.

4)If this fails,loosen the screws and rotate the switch until it meets these requirements.

5)If they can not be met and voltage is always present no matter where you position,replace the throttle switch.

6)If the voltmeter reads no voltage,ensure voltage is
being supplied to the switch.If so,replace the throttle switch.

7)If no clicks are heard while performing test 1 and 2,check wire numbers 20,17,14 and 9 for continuity end
for end from the ECU to throttle switch.

Pressure sensor

1)With the engine not running and the ECU harness
disconnected from ECU,check the resistance from ECU
harness terminal # 7 to 15.Should be 90 ohms and then check the resistance between # 8 and 10.Should be
350 ohms.If this is not met,test the sensor itself.

2)on occasion,the sensor resistance will check out,but will not hold vacumm.Using a hand held vacumm pump perform this test again (step #1)


Injector circuit

1)With the engine not running and the ECU harness
disconnected from ECU,check resistance of ECU harness
pins # 3,4,5,and 6.All should have less than 25 ohms.

2)If the resistance is greatly higher or lower than
25 ohms,test the injector itself.

3)If the injectors pass,repair the wiring harness.

Só para simplificar, a linha de vácuo que vai para o distribuidor só tem sucção qdo vc acelera levemente,na lenta não pode ter nadinha......

A princípio continuo perdido, pois o que me limitou tambem é a definição das cores da solenoite e tambem a conexao dos cabos, sei onde cada cabo vai nas solenoides, pois estava definido com fitas, mas qual delas vai em que parte? tirei fotos para mostrar maiores detalhes:


Estas são as valvulas, e elas ficam todas nestas posições quando colocadas no suporte, não fica uma em cada canto como é a maioria, até mesmo por este motivo que fiquei perdido.


Canto onde ficam as solenoides, esta é a frente, canto esquerdo do paralama, parte interna. E os cabos soltos são os conectores que vão as solenoides, com fita azul, vermelha e amarela.

Agradeço a todos pelo grande interesse em me ajudar, dando uma grande motivação a sempre continuar e fico no aguardo.

Me esqueci de falar, no mesmo canto, encontra-se tambem a parte controladora do Piloto automatico que tambem é a Vácuo, talvez estas solenoides façam parte do mesmo, como teria que abrir todo chicote para encontrar o seu destino, optei em nao desmontar, unica certeza que tenho é que nao pertence ao chicote que vai a ECU, pois este eu tirei todo e o reformei, pois estava em estado crítico.

Os 3 solenoides pintados não são iguais em construção. Para achar, teria que seguir esse chicote e a fiação para ver o que faz cada uma. Acho que o quarto tem a ver com a EGR.

Ainda tem 2 deles que funcionam com o ar condicionado, para controle de saida de ar.
Me mande seu e-mail em MP , tenho algumas coisas que posso te passar, mas são muito grandes para postar aqui...

Desculpem o tamanho mas se não for assim não da pra ver nada:

Alterei os desenhos na primeira resposta...

ATENÇÂO

Algumas informações adicionais. Foram tiradas do manual do motor M115 mas o princípio deve ser o mesmo...

Cores das eletro-válvulas




Diagramas elétricos das eletro-válvulas

Caro Karl,
as fotos não estão aparecendo, talvez os links das mesmas estão incorretos pois aparece apenas um x vermelho nelas, as primeiras colocadas funcionaram, até serem modificadas.

Abraços.

estão abrindo normalmente para mim. Dê uma olhada no seu firewall se não está bloqueando...

Caro Karl,
agora abriu as imagens, mas nao carregam totalmente, acredito que seja algum bloqueio na central , como ja vem sendo de costume acesso a foruns estrangeiros relacionados a tv digital (Firewall nao é porque sempre deixo desabilitado, e tenho 5 maquinas aqui todas com Sistemas Operacionais diferentes). Te mandei uma MP, se voce tiver como me mandar as imagens inslusive em tamanho real, aquele esquema eletrico completo é essencial, pois o que eu tenho é somente da injeçao eletronica, e permite até localizar referente a que dois reles que estao faltando, sao.

Muito obrigado e fico no aguardo.

OK, já estou mandando. Abraços e boa sorte.
Se precisar de algo, estamos em Floripa...

Esse assunto já foi visto em:
https://www.portalmercedes.com/dicas-de-manutencao-f69/diagrama-basico-d-jetronic-parte-1-t3710.htm